Travel Back in Time to Kirwin, Wyoming and Explore the Most Remote Ghost Town in America!
I never know what to expect after I push send on an email, inquiring about an adventure to a region we are planning to explore. One thing I’ve learned over the years is that it’s necessary to get a big start on trip planning as some adventures sell out quickly, especially anything situated close to a National Park. It was nearly Christmas, and I was already knee deep in planning our itinerary for an upcoming six state, summer road trip. I wasn’t expecting a fast response when I fired off an email to Kirwin Ghost Town Adventures, but I was sure in for a surprise. My inbox chimed with a high pitched ‘ping’ immediately after I pushed send, and with that ping came the opportunity for an extraordinary adventure, and a wonderful connection, with a true steward and historian of the land.
You can tell a lot about a person by the way they carry themselves and the words they choose. After bouncing emails back and forth with Thom, the owner of Kirwin Ghost Town Adventures, I knew Aaron and I needed to meet this man in person, and my excitement to explore Wyoming more in depth, grew by the email. Thom reassured me he’d have plenty of space for us, we didn’t need to book too far in advance, and to simply call when we arrived at our RV park in Cody. Fast forward six months, after setting up camp at the KOA in Cody, I picked up the phone.
Within minutes our planned day of casually strolling through the wonderful shops in Cody, turned into a quick drive to Subway for sandwiches and a scramble back to the RV to pack gear. The weather wasn’t looking the best for an excursion 40 miles deep into the Shoshone National Forest with the forecast predicting afternoon thunderstorms, but we were prepared for any type of weather Mother Nature tossed our way with dry bags, wet weather gear, and the ten essentials (and more) that we never hike without. Within an hour or so we met Thom in Meeteetse and my instincts to his character were correct as he exuded a warm, genuine, and true, salt-of-the-earth charisma as he gave a safety briefing and explained what our excursion entailed. Thom is extremely knowledgeable of the area, a true cowboy and adventurer who grew up in the region exploring every nook and cranny. He’s just someone you want to sit down with over a cup of coffee and have a chat about the history of the land, but with clouds brewing and the noon hour fast approaching, we needed to get moving. Next time Thom, coffee’s on us!
The side-by-side Thom provided was PACKED with items to keep us comfortable and in the ample remaining space we tucked away our video, photography, and drone gear. The ride was supposed to take about 45 minutes or so to reach Kirwin, but we immediately grew mesmerized by the stunning landscape and our progress slowed to a serious crawl. Thom had warned us regarding the flood hazards and after entering Shoshone National Forest, we soon encountered a tiny stream crossing, a prelude to larger water crossings to come.
As our familiarity with the side by side grew, so did our enjoyment of the ride, the warmth of the heater providing a rich contrast to the slight chill to the air as we progressed deeper into the valley. We found the dirt and rocky road to be in fantastic shape and we never felt unsafe as we negotiated steep portions, the only hindrance to our my requests to stop the UTV every few yards so that I could step out and grab shot after shot of the gorgeous landscape. Every hue of green carpeted the valley floor, and the contrast of the towering blue mountains was just simply stunning. Kirwin is located almost to the headwaters of the Wood River, the water a near constant companion trickling along on the valley below and occasionally crossing paths with the trail. One area is particularly waterlogged, and we soon found ourselves picking up our feet as we negotiated the depths as the water invariably found its way through the drains on the floorboards.
I won’t lie, the water crossings were the most fun and at one point (after scouting for oncoming traffic) Aaron let loose the side by side to kick up some water. With that said, speaking of safety, it’s important to note that the majority of the roadway is single track, something to be cognizant of as you progress. The lower portion of the valley still plays home to a working cattle ranch and this is free range country so be prepared with patience to allow the natives the right of way! Besides, as Thom says, “It’s not the destination, it’s the ride”, and he isn’t kidding! If you rush this excursion your chances for experiencing the beauty, the ruggedness and solitude of the area will diminish in direct proportion with the heaviness of your right foot on the accelerator.
We patiently awaited a moving cattle train as the critters negotiated the same path undoubtedly seeking the luscious green grasslands surrounding Kirwin. Lead the way!
I am not ashamed to say that it took us nearly an hour and a half to arrive in Kirwin! The rustic parking lot has access to restroom facilities and historical boards explain the rich history of the area. Make sure you check everything out! To explore Kirwin itself, you will need to walk a short path and traverse a wooden bridge which crosses Wood River. Once you negotiate the foot path the area opens up, the town comes to view, and you soon find yourself envisioning life here in the early 1900’s. Breathe deep the mountain air and settle your senses to take in the solitude! Hopefully you can experience the historic site as we did, all to ourselves. What a treat!
You can poke your head into most buildings, but some are in better shape than others, the one common denominator the smell of decay and mouse droppings. The resilience of the people attempting to inhabit the area is remarkable, just envisioning their determination to build something from nothing and physically seeing the remnants still mostly standing lends an air of mystique and testament to their workmanship. Undoubtedly life was harsh, especially in the winter, as the valley is surrounded by towering mountains, some nearing 12,000 feet. It is tragic that an avalanche decimated the town and marked the downfall of such a gorgeous settlement, although the lack of successful gold mining was a prelude for things to come.
We spent another hour or more exploring the remnants of Kirwin, serenaded by the soft sounds of the wandering cows, squirrels, birds, and rustling of trees, but with early evening fast approaching along with some gnarly storm clouds, sadly we had to end our exploration and begin the trek back to Meeteetse. Will we come back? Without a doubt, we owe Thom a cup of coffee. Check out our video below and Kirwin Ghost Town Adventures for more information!
