Hike Like a Local: Avoid the Crowds and Timed Entry System at Rocky Mountain National Park!
Timed entries unfortunately have become the pesky new normal for gaining access to our Nation’s majestic and beloved National Parks, but I’m conflicted in my view of the ‘new’ system. As a photographer and adventurer we prefer to hike in solitude, as it provides enhanced chances for wildlife encounters and just nature bathing isn’t the same with a whole herd of people compacted on a tiny trail. So on one hand, I’m a fan of timing the entry and limiting numbers; however, I also love seeing people out exploring nature, and at some parks, timed entries bar quite a few from experiencing all that the world has to offer. It’s certainly a balance! It’s fun to connect with people we meet in random encounters on a trail and this hike did not disappoint in that regard!
As I trip planned our RMNP experience I sought out the wisdom of the area experts, the locals who know the hidden, off the beaten paths that involve a bit more of a rugged excursion and, might just might, avoid the crowds as well as the timed entry system. RMNP is well known for spectacular wildlife viewing opportunities and boasts an incredibly diverse landscape ranging from flower filled meadows, wooded forests, to mountain tundra with jaw dropping alpine vistas. I selfishly wanted to see it all, in one day, on my own terms, and I knew with proper planning it could be done!
Digging around online I stumbled across a thru-hiker’s comment on a lengthy discussion board regarding the best places to hike and immerse yourself in the region without having to have a timed entry ticket. Heck ya we’re in! After playing on several small-ish hikes in Colorado we were ready for a nice long stretch of the legs and wanted to sample all that the park had to offer. We already knew we’d drive the Trail Ridge Road to the Alpine Visitor Center after the 2pm cut-off for timed entry. Alpine vistas, check. Now to find a wooded forest hike.
Enter in the Lumpy Ridge Trailhead and the Black Canyon Trail!
The trailhead is located five minutes from downtown Estes Park and with easy access we figured the parking lot would fill super early. We were base camped at the Fort Collins KOA Lakeside, an hour or so away, so the alarms were set for a 4:30am wakeup to hit the trail early around 5:30ish. We arrived to a nearly empty parking lot and the moon still high in the sky which added the perfect touch of serenity as we prepared for the hike ahead. The Black Canyon Trail via Lumpy Ridge is one of the lowest elevation entry points into RMNP, but be forewarned, the hike stretches upwards to 10,000 feet so come prepared for ALL types of weather. We gathered our supplies and set off under the eye of the watchful moon.
As we carefully picked our way along the trail, we slowly meandered through beautiful house-sized boulders as the sun began to paint the area with an orange glow revealing stunning views! We had planned a lengthy out and back hike to Lawn Lake, which should have us arriving back at the trailhead in early afternoon, but that plan came to a screeching halt when the sun exposed the beauty of the area.
The single-track trail was lined with so many flowers of ALL colors, it looked like Monet had flung his paint brush every which way in frustration as he attempted to create one of his world-famous impressionistic landscape paintings. I’ve never hiked in an area of so many wildflowers (coming from Washington State with flower-filled Mt. Rainier meadows that’s saying a lot). Flowers weren’t the only items painting the area with color - the huckleberry bushes sported juicy red berries so prolific, the branches often bent to the ground. Now I was really getting excited as berries = animal magnets!!! Cue the bear, deer, elk, marmots, pika or maybe we’d spot the endangered Canada Lynx or North American Wolverine!!!
As you hike the area you’ll begin a delicate dance, weaving your way in and out of the historic MacGregor Ranch. It’s a working cattle ranch so please ensure gates are properly secured as you continue along the trail. As you progress out of the valley you’ll soon climb into strikingly red, cedar filled forests and the previously smooth, red soiled path will become rocky, so good hiking shoes are a must!
Okay confession time. I kinda ruined our plans of a long hike experience as I spent so much time stopping every few feet to take yet another photo or watch the wildlife. We slowly meandered our way up the steep incline to the cutoff leading to Lawn Lake, but with a packed afternoon itinerary, decided to turn back for a hearty lunch in Estes Park.
On the hike back we finally saw all that we missed with our early morning start. The towering rock formations popular among rock climbers along Lumpy Ridge were gorgeous! Each year the NPS imposes closures on the climbing in several areas, to include Lumpy Ridge, to ensure the majestic birds of prey (raptors) that roost, nest, and breed along the massive cliffs can do so undisturbed. The general dates for climbing closure are February 15 - July 31st. If you are a climber, simply check the official NPS website for updates as those dates can be extended or shrunk depending on raptor activity.
Hike Details
Download the Alltrails map of Black Canyon Trail before you go as you’ll lose service within a few minutes of starting the hike. Navigation is certainly not difficult on an out and back, but it’s nice to know where you are along the route as you might just alter your destination depending on which type of landscape you want to see. Like the locals, we recommend Black Canyon Trail for the quintessential Rocky Mountain National Park forest hike. Check out our video below and when you’re done - make sure to check out our adventure on the Falls River Road a recommendation of a local Veterinarian we met on the Black Canyon Trail!
